Ceuse

The temperatures have just kept rising since we arrived at St. Leger. Shortly after sending Colletion Automne Hiver they rose up to well over 30 degrees, and we decided to move to higher altitudes where it would be cooler.

Ceuse is one of my most favorite places in the world. It always brings me great pleasure returning to this atmospheric crag, although this time I was very nervous of how my knee would handle the walk, and what my performance would be like compared with the last time I was here (two years ago). There are many climbs here which I have tried previously and therefore give me a great gauge as to how my climbing has progressed.

Monnaie de singe 8a, Ceuse

As it turned out I did not have any need to be anxious. My knee has given me no troubles, and in my first week here I managed to tick off nearly all of my old projects, within one or two attempts. One of the highlights was my ascent of “Monnaie de singe” 8a (one of the harder 8a’s at Ceuse, which I put a lot energy into on my previous trip), on my third attempt this trip.

I am enjoying repeating the classic climbs here, and starting to exploring the slightly harder lines. I am feeling stronger and fitter every day spent at this wonderful crag which I am enjoying more each time I return.

The ultra-classic... "Blockage violent" 7b+

 

 

Collection Automne Hiver

Since being back in Europe, I have spent six weeks at St. Leger Du Ventoux (France), where I have managed to make quick work of many climbs around 8a/29. A highlight and surprise was succeeding to climb the newest ‘trade route’ “Collection Automne Hiver” 8b+/32, which takes a fantastically proud, 40m line though the massive cave at a newly developed sector, called “La Baline”.

Aside from being one of the hardest routes I have ever climbed, Collection Automne Hiver is also one of the most amazing! It is a beautiful line, with two sections of pure resistance climbing with fantastic moves, separated by a huge rest. Many thanks to the locals for their winter bolting efforts and support!

Mayan climbing the final moves of the steep section of Collection Automne Hiver 8b+/32

Prior to returning to Europe I have just spent five months in the New Zealand summer rehabilitating a knee injury. I am pleased that during this time I managed to maintain a positive outlook on these potentially limiting circumstances, and focused on training my weaknesses (patience and power). To do so, I chose to turn my attention to “Space Boy Extension” 8b+/32 a short, powerful route, which seemed to have been created to work all my weaknesses. It was extremely frustrating at times (especially since there was no tick, grrr!). In hindsight this feels like it has been a valuable investment since returning to Europe with new and refreshed energy for climbing, a more patient attitude, and more physical strength and power.

 

Mayan on the top crux of Collection Automne Hiver 8b+/32

 

I believe that my relatively quick ascent of Collection Automne Hiver is a result of my summer training in NZ, followed by six weeks here in St. Leger, where I have been focusing on building up my resistance and enjoying life.

 

One of the final moves on Collection Automne Hiver 8b+/32

Resistance is a concept little known in NZ. It is something I have learned about since climbing in Europe, and a concept that has opened new doors for my climbing ability. Resistance lies between endurance and power/endurance. Where the climbing intensity is to high to be endurance, but the number of moves are too great to fall into the power/endurance category. The reason for this is simple; we have very few long, sustained routes in NZ.

Metal Art

 

Glider soaring over Mt Cook, this piece is backlit and mounted as an outdoor light.

This is the most recent piece of art I have made, and have just sold. It is 3mm rusted steel, suspended off the wall with a back lighting. It is mounted just outside the door to function as a feature piece and welcoming light at night.

La Girafe

The last few days have been great… My life just seems to be getting better and better! We just had some friends turn up at St. Leger, have met some of the local climbers and have been shown one of the new crags. It is this awesome cave with a sick amount of hard routes and projects!

I climbed “La Girafe” an 8a, which was 40m of pure delight! A superb climb, offering a little bit of everything!

 

Yesterday I had one of my best climbing days. In the morning I succeeded in sending “Le prince du lactic” 8a+, which I had been trying for a few days, and like the name describes is a true test of resistance. Then in the late afternoon I got inspired by the arrival of a cool breeze and decided to try “Cool Frenesie” a 7c+, and was rewarded by succeeding on my second attempt! 

It was a perfect day, capped off by a swim in the river in the last rays of sun, and a beautiful dinner with friends! I feel privileged to  be surrounded by such beautiful people in such a wonderful place. Merci.

Back in France… At last!

 

The town of Brantes, looking out to Mt Ventoux

 

So I am finally back in this wonderful land of rock… it feels like I have been away for far too long, it is far too easy to get sidetracked in this wonderful life of mine. Anyway, it feels really good  to have new inspiration again. Climbing routes which I have never seen before, and seeing countless amazing routes to aspire to!

I arrived in Europe just over a month ago, bought a van and built out the the interior. Then headed down to south France… the land of limestone! Now, I am at St. Leger rebuilding my climbing fitness. The last year has not been the best in terms of my climbing achievements, because of my knee injury and other commitments, but I feel as though everything is back on tack now. The knee is doing great, and I feel strong after a summer training in NZ. I am lacking resistance at the moment, but I trust that will not take too long to return.

I have spent the last couple of weeks settling back into climbing and being on the road full-time. I have been focusing on building up my resistance, climbing routes quickly and not allowing myself to try anything too hard yet.  As a result I have succeeded in climbing several routes around 7c+ and 8a, enjoying new movements on rock, learning to flow again! 

I am loving the french way of life and spend many hours trying to get my head around this language! Will try to get some climbing shots sometime soon, but have been too absorbed in the climbing to get any yet.

Me... working on the van.

NZ Summer

I have been back in New Zealand for a few months now, and have not written anything as my life here feels rather uninteresting… but it has been really good spending the summer at home. I have been spending most of my time climbing at ‘The Cave’ (in Christchurch) and training on our campus board. The remainder of my time has been divided between working for my mother in our cafe (situated on the Omarama Airfield), fixing my house and chilling with friends… enjoying the NZ summer! 

At the cave I have been working “Space Boy” (Extension) 8b+ (32), the first 32 in NZ. This is a route that has always inspired me, but one I thought I would never be able to do, because it has a really big span move which is totally unavoidable. I was at a loss of what to dedicate myself to when I returned to the cave in April last year. The options were quite limited because of my knee injury. Eventually, even though I did not believe that I had a chance of succeeding on it, I decided to try Space Boy, because it does not require any left heel-toes or drop-knees.

The process of working on a route where at first I could not even do all of the moves has forced me to evolve as a climber. This route has challenged me more than any other route that I have ever attempted, and has been extremely frustrating at times, but therefore it has developed my strength and patience tenfold. Attempting to Red-point Space Boy has been a very rewarding journey, even if I never succeed in climbing the route.

Mayan, attempting 'the span' on Space Boy 8b+

Kalymnos, Greece

Kalymnos, Grande Grotta in the background

Mayan onsighting Aegealis 7c

Two weeks in Kalymnos passed very quickly… it was an ideal life consisting of climbing, eating and swimming.

It is has been awesome getting back on long routes. Most of the climbs in the Grande Grotta are at least 40 meters long and very steep, with masses of huge tufas hanging down. Feels like climbing through an upside down forest. The routes I have done in that cave are some of the most 3 dimensional, interesting routes I have climbed… felt like I was on another planet!

My fitness and resistance have been returning very quickly! I had lost most of endurance during the four months I spent in NZ with an injured knee. My injured knee also seems to be getting on better in the warmer climate. It has not been holding me up much at all.

I have been trying to on-sight only, and have been slowly working my way up through the grades, with a good success rate. Last week I managed to on-sight a 7c+’s, three 7c’s and a bunch of 7b and 7b+’s.

It has also been great to be back in summer, the sea is beautiful and even though the weather has been a little too hot for hard routes, it has been perfect for gaining fitness, going swimming and enjoying the Greek island life-style.

Now we are in Spain, Siurana, trying to get used to pulling on small holds again. We took the weekend off climbing and then woke up really psyched this morning, only to find that it was raining… Not ideal, but we really cannot complain as it is the first time we have seen rain in three weeks.

Telendos ferry at Sunset, photo Mayan Smith-Gobat

Creating!

Welcome to my first blog….

 

Mayan's metal art, Mt Cook 2008

 

This is meant to be a climbing site, but this blog has nothing to do with climbing. I have been in a rather nasty wet NZ winter, with a knee injury, so my attention has turned to creating art. I learnt to use a Plasma Cutter and have spent several days creating huge metal works of art.

 

Kahu Cafe Sign, 2008

 

 

Metal Climber, 2008

Hello world!

Mayan Smith-Gobat, Mayan Gobat-Smith, Mayan Smith Gobat, Mayan Gobat Smith, Mayan, Mayan Smith, Mayan Gobat, Smith, Gobat, Smith-Gobat, Gobat-Smith, Smith Gobat, Gobat Smith, 

Female climber, female boulderer, NZ climber, NZ Female climber, Rock climber,

NZ artist, Female artist, metal art, steel art, rusted steel,