Back in Arapiles

Arapiles is a special place for me. This is where I came on my first real climbing trip, when I was 16, where I learnt to place trad gear and where I got my first real taste of true “dirt-bag” climbing life.  Ever since then I have returned fairly regularly, and last year I even ended up living here for a couple of months. So now, Arapiles is definitely one of the places I call “home”.

Mt Arapiles at sunrise

Travel is crazy… I feel like I should be used to it by now. However it never ceases to surprise me how everything in ones life can change so quickly. Simply by boarding a plane, and enduring multiple hours (or days) of discomfort, one can re-emerge to a totally different environment and focus. Lately, I have been traveling enough that the hemisphere and seasons make no sense anymore. I never know which side of the car to get in and home has definitely become a very transient thing… I feel like I spend my life flitting in and out of peoples lives, my friends are scattered around the world, and I just seem to slot into their lives for a period of time, then disappear again!

Siurana

Two weeks ago I was in Spain, enjoying the routes in Siurana, hanging with a super psyched strong crew of Scotts, and now I am in the middle of the flatland of outback Australia, surrounded by half the NZ climbing community!

Arapiles is most famous for its easy multi-pitch routes and sinker stopper placements. However, the beauty of Arapiles is that it really has something to offer everyone, including a good selection of brutally hard test-pieces. In the 80′s Arapiles was at the cutting edge of rock climbing, where the hardest routes were being established. The most famous is ”Punks in the Gym” – The first 32 (8b+/5.14a) in the world, which was first climbed by the master of sport climbing himself, Wolfgang Güllich, and took sport climbing to a new level. Punks is both super technical and brutally powerful and has received relatively few ascents.

Punks in the Gym at sunrise

I first tried Punks in the Gym two years ago, and since then it has become a bit of a nemesis for me. I returned last year, and  came ridiculously close to climbing the route. I extended my trip as much as I could, however, winter conditions were far from ideal for me – It was often wet and I struggled with the cold. This year I am focusing all my energy on this route alone and doing everything in my power to achieve this goal! It is making me think about everything I do, analyze my climbing in utmost detail and really try to control my emotions.

Sunrise, looking out over the plains and gum trees.

Please wish me luck and stay posted for updates!!!

Spanish Spring

A month in Spain really is not enough! I feel like I am just learning to sport climb again and it almost time to leave… I am becoming totally that we really need to two days for every one. There are simply too many routes to climb, too many places to visit and too many experiences not to be missed. I am finding the sheer volume of amazing route here almost daunting, because there is simply not enough time and simply too much psych to be contained in one lifetime!

On sighting the crux of Estaquirot, 7c at sector Regina. Photo: Jonny Baker

I had intended to only be in Terradets for a week. However, I soon became psyched on doing a particular route – A relatively short, powerful route, with no good rests and no sneaky sequences to avoid the long dynamic moves. Before I knew it two weeks had slipped past, and yet this route was still eluding me… It was high time to move on, and so this has just become another route on my list of routes to return to when I am stronger.

On sighting Estaquirot, 7c at sector Regina. Photo: Jonny Baker

Luckily, even though I did not end up with a tick, I do believe that trying this route served its purpose of getting me stronger and building my power-endurance more than any of the other long, pumper routes at Terradets would have done. I have to constantly remind myself not to get to caught up in these momentary frustrations, that this trip is actually training for a greater goal!

Enjoying my morning coffee on the shores of Panta des Terradets

During the time I spent in Terradets I feel like the season changed from a beautiful, yet cold and crisp Spanish winter, to full-blown spring. The temperatures rose significantly and valleys became filled with blossoms! My home for those two weeks was a small clearing on the side of Panta des Terradets, and I swam in the  lake every single day that I was there – Well maybe swimming was an over statement, it was a rare occasion when I managed to stay in for more than a second!

Spring blossoms

I always find it is a little sad leaving a place which has become familiar, and yet this time I was kind of impatient to get on the road again… Now, I am in Siurana, sitting out thunderstorm and struggling to be patient. I really cannot complain though – it is the first rain I have seen for a month! I wish my time Spain would never end and am already looking forward to spending much more time here next winter!

A typical spanish village

Training – A Muerte!

Immaculate limestone, endless sunshine, perfect climbing conditions, my own little home on wheels and good friends to hang out with… What more could I possibly ask for?

There are several things I could think of which would be nice… But the thing I am mostly struggling with at the moment is my lack of sport climbing fitness. I find it frustrating being surrounded by such amazing routes, but not feeling in shape for sport climbing. I guess this is to be expected and is the price you pay for not really focusing on climbing sport routes for several months (and staying away from this limestone mecca for too long). Until last week, you could probably count the number of days I have clipped bolts on one hand over the last four months. Last fall in the Valley, I dedicated all my energy to free climbing El Capitan – Mainly doing long sustained crack climbing. Then, I decided to concentrate on bouldering for a while, because I felt the need to regain some power!

My current project - a steep, dynamic power-endurance route which is successfully working my weaknesses!

I knew all along that the first couple weeks of this trip would be frustrating. But I just have to keep reminding myself that it is all training – That each time I fall off a route, simply because my arms simply cannot hold on anymore, I am gaining fitness and that next time will be better!

Despite all this, it really does feel fantastic to be back in this wonderful land of rock, and to be reunited with my little van! After living out of my backpack for a couple months, having a van to spread out in seems like an amazing luxury. Not to mention the freedom of being able to go wherever I want, whenever I want… and stay anywhere! Thanks to all my wonderful friends who made room in their cars and houses for me over the last few months. I hope I can return the favor at some point!

Ahhh, van life - Me and my home!

I arrived in Europe a couple weeks ago, spent a week with my family in Germany, then headed south… My first stop was south France, where I spent several days sampling the classic crags around Provence, and of course, enjoying french pastries! Now, I have made it down to Spain and have spent the last couple days sport climbing “a meurte!”… Getting epically pumped on the tufas in Terradets, focusing only on climbing and very occasionally making it to the top of a route!

Back streets of Lourmarin - Classic France!

Adios Bishop

Desert, mountains, beautiful boulders, psyched friends and endless splitter days… What more could one ask for? This pretty  much sums up my stay in Bishop! After barley bouldering at all for the last five years, over the last month in Bishop I really discovered the joys of bouldering. The simple pleasure of doing a short  sequence of moves, being able to focus purely on individual movements.

On Mesophilioma, V7. Photographer: Aaron Karres

That said, I was most attracted to the big, bold and strikingly beautiful lines, which are relatively abundant and are what Bishop has become famous for.  I loved the commitment and mental control these highballs require. Some of which verge on route length and blur the line between highballing and soloing. Many would definitely be bolted in many other places around the world.

On the "Ninth" a super committing V6 in a stunning location at the top of the Buttermilks. Photographer: Aaron Karres

I loved my time in Bishop and climbed many amazing boulders. However, for every problem I climbed, I added several more lines to my “to do” list.  I am excited to return, hopefully with a little more strength and skills next time – There are several lines which I very motivated to climb! However, now that I have committed to leaving and heading to Spain – The motherload of limestone, I feel totally ready to move on and am looking forward to climbing routes again. Rope-streatching, overhung limestone routes in Spain are calling my name. I feel ready to begin regaining my fitness, and sinking my teeth into a project.

Topping out Mesophilioma. Photographer: Aaron Karres

Impromptu Roadtrip

Every time you kind of feel you have it sorted, life seems to have a crazy way of throwing something new into the mix – This is not necessarily a bad thing. However it tends to confuse matters at times and is making it hard for me to make decisions. My life just seems to be a whirlwind of experiences and too many great opportunities keep coming up… I feel very privileged to be in this position, yet at times I feel like I am having a hard time keeping up with my life.

Self portrait above Arrow Canyon

The last few weeks have been hectic – bouldering, driving, Trade Show, visiting new areas, meeting great people and filming…  After the Trade Show I made a very impromptu decision to head down to St. George (Southern Utah) with Sasha, Ben, Andy and Keith. This turned into a week of fun and crushing with the Five Ten crew! We sampled the crags around Southern Utah, went to hot springs and even managed to fit some canyoneering into our schedule! The Blasphemy wall at the VRG has amazing climbing, but I found the deafening roar of trucks which permanently echos around the george is hard to come to terms with at first. Soon I discovered that while climbing I was able to switch off to this though and I loved the brutally unforgiving style of climbing on this wall. For me the highlight of the trip was my ascent of Fall of Man 5.13b.

On the first crux of Fall of Man 5.13b, VRG. Photographer: Keith Ladzinski

We were also lucky to get a couple of great days climbing at the Cathedral, because of the unseasonably warm winter. The silence up there was a welcome break from the VRG. It has been super fun, seeing new places, bouldering and doing routes quickly. However, I always find that after several weeks of this, I miss having a project which dominates my brain and takes over my life. I am finding once again that life starts feeling pointless and empty without having an overriding goal to focus on.

Cacti

Lately, a concept that my ex-boyfriend often talked to me about keeps popping into my mind… “Just because you can do something, does not mean you should.” This thought has made me really try to evaluate my life and what is really important to me before just committing to an opportunity. However, thinking in this way and my transient lifestyle has also made it difficult for me to fully commit to anything and I am feeling the need to really sink my teeth into a project again…

For now though, I am back in Bishop, for another couple weeks of bouldering. There are several proud lines which I am very inspired to attempt here, and a great group of friends that I am excited to have the chance to spend some more time with.

A random dead plant which caught my imagination one morning.

Salathe Footage

It feels a long time ago, and worlds away right now… But here is a video of me on the Salathe Headwall. It is still my favorite place to be. Enjoy!

Video by Andy Bardon

 

Big walls & Boulders

Ahhh, Yosemite… I just can’t seem to keep myself away form the place! It seems to have an irresistible allure, a magnetic field which keeps drawing me back.

This last trip I discovered that it is not just the big walls which hold appeal for me, but also those little pebbles lying scattered around the valley floor. I had always kind of found it strange that people came to Yosemite just for the bouldering when there are such amazing walls to be climbed… However, now I have gained some understanding of how good the bouldering is there. I went to the Valley with the intention to do both boulder and routes, yet my main motivation was to play on El Capitan. I was yearning to feel hundreds of feet of air under my feet again and be alone on that wonderful wall.

Back on the Capitan - Alone in the vertical world and loving it!

My first day in the Valley I hiked back up to the summit of El Cap, dug out my ropes and spent the day hanging out alone in the vast vertical world. It was an amazing contrast to my last visit to this wall – Everything was silent, miles of granite stretched out below me with no one else in sight… even the usually teeming Valley floor was deserted. I loved the silence and space of being back up there alone. Even just hiking back up to the summit made me feel like I was back at home – I realized once again, that El Capitan really has become  a part of my being over the last few seasons I have spent in the Valley. However after a day up there I was happy to return my focus to bouldering and making the most of the perfect winter conditions on the Valley floor.

Bouldering with Alex Johnson. Photographer: Tom Moulin

It was awesome focusing on the boulders for once, sampling some of the true Valley classics and hanging out with friends. It was also nice to return with a little bouldering fitness – To feel strong after a couple weeks of bouldering in Bishop was a pleasant contrast to my previous attempts at bouldering in the Valley, after only climbing cracks for several months! After a really fun week of destroying myself, with tapped tips and totally over worked shoulders, I was very happy to finish my week in the Valley with an ascent of the notorious “King Cobra”…

Desperately trying to stem my way up "King Cobra" V8, Yosemite Valley. Photographer: Tom Moulin

Now I am back in Bishop, soaking up some more desert sun, and looking forward to returning to the Valley soon!

Bouldering frustration... Photographer: Tom Moulin