Astroman, no, Astrogirl!

In 1957 Astroman was first climbed (using about 225 aid placements), in 1975 it was first free climbed, becoming the most continuously difficult free climb in the world, and in 1987 Peter Croft made the first free solo ascent. Today this steep 400m route still holds it’s status as one of the most famous and challenging Yosemite test-pieces.

My beta map... This is all the information I had on the climb!

Yesterday, I summoned up my courage to test my three week old crack climbing skills on this legendary climb. The result was better than I had dared to imagine. I succeeded in climbing Astroman in the best style… ground up, in one day, leading every pitch on-sight without a single fall. 

About halfway up the 400m of overhung granite.

Astroman has not gained it’s fame for no reason, it is amazingly sustained, every pitch was challenging and unforgiving. Its relentless, and testing in every way… from very thin face moves and mantels, to lay-backs, unprotected off-widths and with flaring bottomless chimneys. This is definitely the most sustained and incredible traditional climb I have freed.

Destroyed and content... Relaxing in the RV the next morning.

Free Rider

The big stone has left its mark…. We were on the wall for a mere three days, and yet it feels as though a life time has passt. I feel as though it has changed me, I have grown and aged in those three days. This huge piece of stone has a presence that dominates me and has left its mark on my life…. I understand now why people return endlessly to the valley, and spend huge amounts of time living in the vertical world. 

Partners in crime, Max and I under El Capitan. Photographer: Mark Watson

I decided not to even attempt Golden Gate because it was getting near the end of the season, storms were becoming more frequent and the weather windows shorter. Choosing rather to attempt Free Rider 5.12d (27) instead, which is a little shorter and not quite as hard, therefore hopefully achievable in three days… giving us one day to spare before the next storm hit.

Sorting gear in preparation for Free Rider. Photographer: Mark Watson

This plan did not leave us much time for error, and also allowed me very little time to work and red-point any pitches that I did not manage to do first shot, but I was more in favor of this, than not climbing El Capitan at all. So, we spent the next next day sorting our gear and then to lighten the load on Max and I, we hauled the bags up to heart ledges in the dark.

Gear... Em's Power Bars were a vital ingredient for our success. Photographer: Max Farr

The first day went really well, we were up by 4am, by midday we had blasted out the “Free Blast” (the first 11 pitches of the Salathe Wall), and arrived at the Mamoth terraces. The down-climb was interesting, but went smoothly, leaving us at the base of the Hollow flake; where unfortunately we were held up for about an hour by a slower team. This gave me a much welcomed rest, but unfortunately meant that I ran out of daylight before attempting the “Monster”, a 50m off-width which takes a number 6 Camalot nearly all the way up. Even though the “Monster” is only graded 5.11b, most climbers find it one of the crux pitches, and most attempt this pitch with full-body armor. So, once again at that moment I was happy to have a good excuse not to have to climb it right then, but in retrospect this hugely reduced my chances of free climbing the route.

Me, near the end of our first day on Free Rider, just below the "Monster". Photographer: Mark Watson

The following morning I gathered my tiered body together and threw myself at the pitch repetitively, but the rock was slightly damp and already too warm for me to succeed in doing the powerful and friction dependent downwards traverse which leads into the “Monster”. With precious time ticking and a storm brewing, I was forced to accept that this time I would not be able to achieve my goal of freeing climbing El Capitan. I was faced with a choice between pushing on for the summit in whatever style I could or  try to work out the crux pitches and then return to the ground. It was a very hard call to make, and in the end we fixed a few more pitches that day, but left the decision open. I desperately wanted the top, it is something I have dreamed of all my life, but I also wanted to achieve it in a particular style… My goal is free climbing, and I found it very difficult to accept that this time I might have to use some aid if I wanted to get to the top in the amount of time we had available…. The “storm of the  century” was brewing!

Finally we decided to charge for the top. That last day on the headwall of El Capitan was mind blowing. We were up 5am, jugging our fixed lines by 6am and climbing by 7am. I lead 14 pitches that day, free climbing (on-sight) the majority of the route, but resorting to pulling on gear through the crux sections to save time. At dusk we were in a crazily exposed position halfway up the headwall, hanging on a couple of fixed wires in a splitter hand crack, 800m above the valley floor with another five pitches to climb. My energy levels had crashed and I almost lost it when I rounded a corner to what I expected to be a ledge and was confronted with another epic off-width. With Max’s undying support, I managed to pull my wasted body together, and succeeded to on-sight the last three pitches to the summit, including a 5.11a roof-crack! We reached the summit at midnight, after 18 hours of climbing, to a much welcomed greeting from our friends, Mark and Hanah, who had thankfully not given up on us.

Tiered, but happy... Sorting gear at the top of El Capitan. Photographer: Mark Watson

The next morning we slowly made our way back down to the valley floor, and with the weather becoming more and more threatening we decided to bail with our friends that afternoon. The clouds were pouring into the valley as we drove out, and half an hour after we crossed Tioga Pass it was closed due to heavy snow fall… Perfect timing!

I did not achieve my goal of freeing El Capitan, but I did lead every pitch (other than the monster off-width). Even though my body still hurts with every movement and my hands are so swollen that I can barely type this update, three days later, I have a burning desire to return to the valley and complete my goal of freeing El Capitan. I have learned a huge amount during the three days on the wall, and feel much better equipped for my next attempt. This experience has given me confidence that I can complete this goal, and has fueled fire in my heart and my love for these huge vertical expanses.

Max and I at the summit, ready for the long desent back to the insanity of the valley floor. Photographer: Mark Watson

Yosemite Valley

Finally I have arrived back in Yosemite…. My first experience in this amazing valley of granite, was when I was three years old, with my parents. Ever since then I have dreamed of spending some time learning to climb these incredible walls with endless splitter cracks. As expected, my first week here has been a humbling (and at times humiliating) experience. Nearly everyday I have come back frustrated, with my tail between my legs, cursing the cracks and the crazy amount of gear necessary for trad climbing. Yet, I am also amazingly psyched to learn, improve and broaden my skills. 

Dagmar (my Mother) and I under El Capitan

This trip here has also been enriched by returning here with my Mother, cooking wonderful meals and telling stories of Yosemite in the the 1960’s. In addition I have enjoyed the presence of a great crew of fellow Kiwis, who have provided endless amounts of support, inspiration, beta and laughs.

Kiwi, Matt Everad on the incredible finger crack "Butter Balls" 5.11c

The last few days have been divided between cragging with my friends and familiarizing myself with the lower part of El Capitan, trying to get my head around the mammoth task of free climbing this huge face, learning the necessary skills and building up my fitness for this style of climbing. The temperatures are dropping and it feels as though winter is on its way, therefore our time is limited and El Capitan is calling my name.

A Parting Gift

Our time at Ceuse has come to an end, and unfortunately this also marks the end of our time in this wonderful country (France). However, for me the last couple of days here could not have been more perfect. I achieved one of my life goals: to climb 8c (33) before my 30^th birthday. It happened at my favourite place, and at one of the most beautiful, atmospheric crags in the world!

Locking down the first crux of L'arcademicien 8c

Today (5 Sept) I made the first female ascent of “L’arcademicien”, a real 8c, during a stunning sunset. I clipped the chains with an incredible felling of elation and relief, just as the full moon was rising!

Mincing on the tiny crimpers on real crux of L'arcademicien 8c

“L’arcademicien” is a relatively new route, yet is very typical “Ceuse-style” climbing. It follows a grey streak up 25 meters of very sustained, technical climbing on micro holds, interrupted by the occasional long lock to a reasonable hold. Not only is this the hardest route I have climbed, but also the first time a Kiwi woman has climbed 8c, and the second NZ ascent of an 8c outside of New Zealand.

Reaching...

I have dedicated the last two weeks at Ceuse to this route, carefully considering every attempt, yet always approaching it with passion and commitment. I believe this focus combined with a myriad of other factors, lead to my success on “L’arcademicien”. The route suited my climbing style, I was well rested (two rest days payed off, yet again!), the conditions were finally good. I managed to let go of my expectations and desire for success, which freed me to truly focus on climbing. In addition, I had an unwavering source of support and belief from my partner. This support helped me maintain high, but balanced levels of self-belief and confidence that were necessary for me to give every attempt my absolute best, yet realistic enough so that failures would not result in disappointment or frustration.

Does the crimping ever finish... One of the last hard moves on L'arcademicien 8c

The timing was perfect; I only had one more climbing day at Ceuse before heading back up to Germany and preparing for the next challenge: In mid-September we fly to the USA, where my partner and I intend to spend two months learning to climb cracks in Yosemite Valley.

Girl Power!

How many times have we all thought that it would be great to see more strong girls out at the crag?

Until this summer, my mind had often been occupied by thoughts like this…  However, at Ceuse this summer there seems to be almost more females climbing hard routes than men! I have definitely witnessed more impressive sends by women this summer than ever before. I have often wished to be surrounded by more females climbing around my level (or stronger), but had almost given up hope that it would ever happen! Therefore, I have found this influx of strong women climbers very inspiring and motivating.

Mid crux on "Le Chirurgien du Crepscule" 8b, Ceuse

 

Yes, I am still at Ceuse, plans have changed a little due to the fact that I have to get some dentistry work done…. Grrrr 

But on the up-side, is there a better place to be stuck in European summer than Ceuse? I do not think that I could ever get sick of this atmospheric place, or run out of climbs to try here. My latest achievement was “Le Chirurgien du Crepscule” 8b, a technical and fingery master piece, on another blank and beautiful piece of Ceuse limestone.

Just another dead-point to another tiny pocket on "Le Chirurgien du Crepscule"

Resting

I have just returned to Ceuse after spending the last ten days with my family, at their house near the West coast of France. It has been refreshing for me to be totally removed from my climbing life, and beautiful to see them all relaxing in the sun, enjoying a quiet, little oasis in the middle of rural France.

Climbing is my passion in life, but after three months of living on the road and climbing at a high level, it can become a bit of a routine. My body still felt fine, but my temper and patience were starting to become strained. Therefore, this has been a welcome and necessary break.

Before leaving Ceuse, I summoned up the courage to join the hoards of holiday climbers on the slabs to get to the impressive roof above. “Radote Joli Pepere” 8b took me several days, as the last boulder was very hard for me. While my quick-draws were on I witnessed eight ascents of this route, most of which were within three attempts, and included on onsight by a Swiss woman… Very impressive!

On the crux move of Radote Joli Pepere 8b

This is the third summer I have spent a period of time a Ceuse. Every year the level of climbing rises, but this year I have found it most striking. There seems to be an endless stream of strong climbers kicking ass on most of the hard routes around. This year I am also thrilled to see a large increase in the amount of strong females and  young climbers.

Berlin Wall

This gently overhanging wall, with a large concentration of beautiful, sustained routes between 7c and 8a+, is one of my favourite, and it is possibly the sector I have climbed at most in Ceuse. On each of my trips here (over the last few years) I have climbed a few routes on this sector, slowly working my way along the wall from left to right. It is one of my goals is to climb every route on is sector!

My latest send, and the most difficult for me so far, was Dolce Vita 8a+, this route is much more bouldery than the others on this wall, with long, powerful moves on small holds.

 

Mayan climbing the first part of the crux of Dolce Vita 8a+

 

This trip I have been really enjoying the social aspect and positive vibes created by sharing information with other climbers. A striking and inspiring encounter I have had was with Alexander, a 14-year-old Polish boy who is on a three-month climbing trip alone. He is tiny for his age, but that is not stopping him from crushing 8a’s. He insists that grades do not mater to him, and climbs simply for the fun of it, always with a smile.

 

Alex sending his first 8a "Petit Tom", third attempt

The Black Bean

After a week at Ceuse, I was feeling strong, climbing well and ready to throw myself at something harder again. For difficulty, Biography sector is the obvious choice. This wall has always inspired me, and since first laying eyes on it, I have dreamt of climbing one of the routes that go all the way to the top of this striking piece of rock.

I chose to try “No Futur” 8c/8c+ first, but soon realised that this was out of my league and additionally it lost a lot of appeal when I realised the extent to which it had been manufactured.

Thanks to some local info, I then decided to have a look at “Black Bean” 8b+, an extension to the already fantastic “Les Collonettes” 7c+.  It takes a beautiful, natural line to the top of the Biography wall. Instantly this route obsessed me; it felt incredible to be able to do such amazing moves so high up on one of the most impressive rock faces I know. 

 

The Black Bean 8b+(32), 65m on Biography wall at Ceuse

 

Quickly, I felt capable of climbing Black Bean, and to my surprise I succeeded to make the first female ascent of this epic route on my third day (fifth attempt). This route redefined the term “resistance” for me, and also tested my concentration skills over a prolonged period of time. I feel that my preparation over the last year in NZ, building up resistance since being in Europe, and learning to be a little more patient were all key factors in my ascent. It was only the second time I had taken two rest days in a row since being in Europe, and both times I sent a route at my limit on the very next day!

Ceuse

The temperatures have just kept rising since we arrived at St. Leger. Shortly after sending Colletion Automne Hiver they rose up to well over 30 degrees, and we decided to move to higher altitudes where it would be cooler.

Ceuse is one of my most favorite places in the world. It always brings me great pleasure returning to this atmospheric crag, although this time I was very nervous of how my knee would handle the walk, and what my performance would be like compared with the last time I was here (two years ago). There are many climbs here which I have tried previously and therefore give me a great gauge as to how my climbing has progressed.

Monnaie de singe 8a, Ceuse

As it turned out I did not have any need to be anxious. My knee has given me no troubles, and in my first week here I managed to tick off nearly all of my old projects, within one or two attempts. One of the highlights was my ascent of “Monnaie de singe” 8a (one of the harder 8a’s at Ceuse, which I put a lot energy into on my previous trip), on my third attempt this trip.

I am enjoying repeating the classic climbs here, and starting to exploring the slightly harder lines. I am feeling stronger and fitter every day spent at this wonderful crag which I am enjoying more each time I return.

The ultra-classic... "Blockage violent" 7b+

 

 

Collection Automne Hiver

Since being back in Europe, I have spent six weeks at St. Leger Du Ventoux (France), where I have managed to make quick work of many climbs around 8a/29. A highlight and surprise was succeeding to climb the newest ‘trade route’ “Collection Automne Hiver” 8b+/32, which takes a fantastically proud, 40m line though the massive cave at a newly developed sector, called “La Baline”.

Aside from being one of the hardest routes I have ever climbed, Collection Automne Hiver is also one of the most amazing! It is a beautiful line, with two sections of pure resistance climbing with fantastic moves, separated by a huge rest. Many thanks to the locals for their winter bolting efforts and support!

Mayan climbing the final moves of the steep section of Collection Automne Hiver 8b+/32

Prior to returning to Europe I have just spent five months in the New Zealand summer rehabilitating a knee injury. I am pleased that during this time I managed to maintain a positive outlook on these potentially limiting circumstances, and focused on training my weaknesses (patience and power). To do so, I chose to turn my attention to “Space Boy Extension” 8b+/32 a short, powerful route, which seemed to have been created to work all my weaknesses. It was extremely frustrating at times (especially since there was no tick, grrr!). In hindsight this feels like it has been a valuable investment since returning to Europe with new and refreshed energy for climbing, a more patient attitude, and more physical strength and power.

 

Mayan on the top crux of Collection Automne Hiver 8b+/32

 

I believe that my relatively quick ascent of Collection Automne Hiver is a result of my summer training in NZ, followed by six weeks here in St. Leger, where I have been focusing on building up my resistance and enjoying life.

 

One of the final moves on Collection Automne Hiver 8b+/32

Resistance is a concept little known in NZ. It is something I have learned about since climbing in Europe, and a concept that has opened new doors for my climbing ability. Resistance lies between endurance and power/endurance. Where the climbing intensity is to high to be endurance, but the number of moves are too great to fall into the power/endurance category. The reason for this is simple; we have very few long, sustained routes in NZ.