Back in Arapiles

Arapiles is a special place for me. This is where I came on my first real climbing trip, when I was 16, where I learnt to place trad gear and where I got my first real taste of true “dirt-bag” climbing life.  Ever since then I have returned fairly regularly, and last year I even ended up living here for a couple of months. So now, Arapiles is definitely one of the places I call “home”.

Mt Arapiles at sunrise

Travel is crazy… I feel like I should be used to it by now. However it never ceases to surprise me how everything in ones life can change so quickly. Simply by boarding a plane, and enduring multiple hours (or days) of discomfort, one can re-emerge to a totally different environment and focus. Lately, I have been traveling enough that the hemisphere and seasons make no sense anymore. I never know which side of the car to get in and home has definitely become a very transient thing… I feel like I spend my life flitting in and out of peoples lives, my friends are scattered around the world, and I just seem to slot into their lives for a period of time, then disappear again!

Siurana

Two weeks ago I was in Spain, enjoying the routes in Siurana, hanging with a super psyched strong crew of Scotts, and now I am in the middle of the flatland of outback Australia, surrounded by half the NZ climbing community!

Arapiles is most famous for its easy multi-pitch routes and sinker stopper placements. However, the beauty of Arapiles is that it really has something to offer everyone, including a good selection of brutally hard test-pieces. In the 80’s Arapiles was at the cutting edge of rock climbing, where the hardest routes were being established. The most famous is “Punks in the Gym” – The first 32 (8b+/5.14a) in the world, which was first climbed by the master of sport climbing himself, Wolfgang Güllich, and took sport climbing to a new level. Punks is both super technical and brutally powerful and has received relatively few ascents.

Punks in the Gym at sunrise

I first tried Punks in the Gym two years ago, and since then it has become a bit of a nemesis for me. I returned last year, and  came ridiculously close to climbing the route. I extended my trip as much as I could, however, winter conditions were far from ideal for me – It was often wet and I struggled with the cold. This year I am focusing all my energy on this route alone and doing everything in my power to achieve this goal! It is making me think about everything I do, analyze my climbing in utmost detail and really try to control my emotions.

Sunrise, looking out over the plains and gum trees.

Please wish me luck and stay posted for updates!!!

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~ by mayangoabt on April 22, 2012.

6 Responses to “Back in Arapiles”

  1. Good Luck with Punks! This time I reckon you’ll get there.

  2. All the luck in the world Mayan, keep living the dream.

  3. You gotta relax Mayan, climb with a smile on your face, climb with a spring in your step. Good Luck!

  4. Thanks Monique!

  5. I loved the entry- you have me itching to get out there. No need for good luck- you’ll send!! Have fun while working it though : )

  6. Hey Mayan, don’t need no luck.. it’s all about the right time, sick climbs are for sick people, I reckon you’re sick ! I wish you all the best, cheers from France..

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